There’s threads and then there’s threads
I (Grant) visit the more upmarket chain stores only when they can tempt me in with nice round figures like 50% off and the like. They look so pleasing to the Scottish eye and make you feel like you are going to go home smiling, one way or the other. It means I can confidently look at items with other round figures such as $80 or even $100 on them and do so without my heart stopping momentarily. I recently replaced one or two of my ten year old shirts with some sale items and took them home with that warm bargain glow clearly ‘on’.
The first day I wore one shirt, I noticed a few stray threads hanging off the buttons, which I promptly snipped off. The warm glow dulled the pain of this first disappointment and on I went. Later I found more threads on the inside and some on the outside which the warm glow could do nothing about! Many pictures of poor workmanship because of cheap labour and cramped conditions came to mind and sighs of “what is the world coming to” etc. One jumper I had bought from the same establishment had a “pilling free guarantee”. I was more than a little ‘pilled off’ when I found the pills appearing when I had worn it seldom and not washed it once! How low would these guys stoop to make things appear classy and well made when the product is obviously well below this standard.
When we started at Tribes and Nations we worried that the first shipment, after the initial samples, would arrive dirty, unfinished and a mere shadow of what the samples had been. Our worries proved futile as our first container turned up, from Heed in Bangladesh, looking fantastic. Every item bore the expected slight inconsistencies of handmade products while giving us the very clear picture that somebody, maybe two or four bodies, had poured over their work until it was deemed ready to package and send. Our worries however persisted as we were still to receive shipments from Sri Lanka, Cambodia and India! What would they be like!? One after the other, each shipment and every bit of packaging and finishing articulated pride in their craftsmanship, a concern to give value, a love for their work. Without exaggeration, each parcel was a joy to open and lead even me (who has been accused of having meagre communication abilities) to write gushing letters of thanks for the effort they had put in. This is the stuff that partnerships are built on, not just between them and us, but as we passed these products confidently onto our customers.
When you buy products from us we stand on the value that we have seen given by workers and their bosses who see business as a relationship and not a money making enterprise. As a result they give value for money, they take time to make sure we have received the best they can offer. As a result, if you are interested in price alone or label alone, we will not be able to satisfy you. If you would like to know that your products came from the hands of properly paid workers, that their conditions were good, that their bosses see them as more than just a money making tool, then you are in the right place. If you ever find one of our products that has “slipped through the cracks” then send it straight back for a full refund or replacement.
Storm in a coffee cup as Fairtrade roasts Maccas
THE battle for the ethical dollar is heating up. As BP became the first national retail chain to switch its entire coffee supply to Fairtrade, the certification marque this week went public with its concerns that McDonald's is stealing its thunder.
In the past week, billboards, bus shelter posters and internet ads have been trumpeting the petrol retailer's commitment to selling Fairtrade coffee, which guarantees coffee growers in developing countries a minimum price for each kilogram of coffee and an additional premium to go towards community projects.
For more on this article from the Sydney Morning Herald click here.
For a similar article from Trade Aid in New Zealand
Tribes and Nations value the commitment of RFA to the environment and acknowledge that this in turn has improved the surroundings and safety of the farmers themselves. We, like Trade Aid, have fallen on the side of Fairtrade as their price guarantee is one thing that RFA does not deliver on. Through their tightly audited system, from farmer to retailer, Fairtrade gives great assurance that cheap 'exploitive beans' have not been mixed in with the certified product. More so, all our coffees are organic so the exclusion of chemicals is also guaranteed, a promise not made by RFA.
For more on the Fairtrade and RFA debate click here.
May 2007 Illusions In Your Coffee Mug
I settled down to eat my veggie sub from Subway. I'm guilt-ridden: it's corporate, not local food. But as I glance down at my Subway napkin, I'm able to feel a bit relieved as it reads, "100 percent recycled fiber with a minimum of 60 percent post-consumer material processed chlorine free and printed with water based inks." It has become clearer than ever that being green is big business. More and more companies are catching on - it's profitable to be green.
Unfortunately, it's also profitable to seem green. The term is ambiguous and leaves plenty of room for deceit. At the same time that some companies are truly adopting progressive policies, just as many are faking it. One such example is Starbucks. In full-page ads in the New York Times, in brochures and on their website, Starbucks says it pays premium prices for premium beans, protects tropical forests and is committed to supporting coffee farming communities. The Starbucks NYT ad carries the slogan "Fair Trade - bringing us a little closer, making lives a little better."
What their PR fails to mention is "the so-called 'enormous commitment' to buying Fair Trade coffee amounts to a grand total of one tenth of one percent of the company's total coffee purchases" (Organic Consumers Association). Starbucks has long avoided the call to sell only Fair Trade Certified coffee by purporting to make up for it in charity. Recently, the Green L.A. Girl blog pointed me to an investigative report in the Sacramento Bee on the real story behind Starbucks' eco and worker-friendly claims. SacBee's Tom Knudson spent three weeks in Ethiopia and found the very Ethiopian farmers Starbucks alleges to benefit are actually living in poverty, "forced to settle for a little charity instead of receiving a fair price for their coffee."
One of Starbucks' feel-good cards are the footbridges they funded for a whopping $25,000 in Ethiopia's famous Sidamo coffee-growing region, which helps farmers get to work safely. But as Tadesse Meskela, a farmers' co-op manager points out in the article, "If we are paid a (coffee) price which is decent, the people can make the bridge on their own… We don't have to always be beggars." Muel Alema, a rail-thin coffee farmer who lives near a Starbucks-funded footbridge said, "We plant and harvest coffee but we never get anything out of it."
This demonstrates one of the pitfalls in trying to help the disparity between "third world" developing countries and industrialized nations like the U.S. - unfortunately, charity is usually not the answer. Although it is the simplest and most likely to produce short-term effects, charity does not necessarily create change. Rather, real solutions are in the complex direction of policy change, eliminating middlemen profits and activism that puts the tools in the hands of the people who are struggling.
If you're wondering how Starbucks gets away with all this and still gets a gold star, just remember: we're talking about a multi-billion dollar company that "opened an average of 25 stores a week last year in the United States alone," according to the article.
Dean Cycon, founder of Dean's Bean's, an organic coffee company in Massachusetts, calls Starbucks "a marketing genius." "They put out cleverly crafted material that makes the consumer feel they are doing everything possible," Cycon said. "But there is no institutional commitment. They do it to capture a market and shut up the activists." Clearly not the behavior we'd expect, as we are duped into paying extra for a seemingly responsible corporate citizen.
Thank goodness LMU doesn't have a Starbucks (we proudly serve 100 percent Fair Trade Certified coffee), but obviously Starbucks isn't the only culprit. This is standard business. I can think of one LMU neighbor that is guilty of the same dishonest green-washing of their image (ehem, Playa Vista).
Ultimately, being a consumer just got harder. So next time you notice a company flaunting their progressive practices, don't buy it, especially if they need a full-page NYT ad to preach about it.
This is the opinion of Caitlin Rogers, a senior urban studies major from Greenfield, Mass. Please send comments to adwyer@theloyolan.com
Illusions in your coffee mug
Caitlin Rogers
Media Credit: Courtesy of Caitlin Rogers
Media Credit: Matthew Mahoney
Archived articles of the Month
January 2008
Buyers begin to cotton on
A SMALL village in Mali is not usually where you expect to run into a buyer from British high-street stores Topshop, Marks & Spencer or Debenhams, but the landlocked African country is increasingly playing host to some of the world's top retailers as they battle it out to prove their ethical credentials.
Demand for Fairtrade and organic cotton, much of which is grown by small producers in poor countries such as Mali, Cameroon and Burkina Faso, is expected to balloon this year as stores draw on one of the best-known ethical brands.
http://www.theaustralian.news.com.au/story/0,25197,22994714-5010800,00.html
Fair enough?
Cadbury hopes to secure its cocoa supply with a new scheme
TIMES have not been sweet lately for Cadbury Schweppes, the world's biggest confectioner by sales. Nelson Peltz, an American activist investor, is waging a campaign for more influence over the management of the British company. Prices for raw materials are at record highs. Policymakers are stepping up their campaigns to warn consumers about the dangers of obesity. And Cadbury is uncertain about how to proceed with its plan to demerge its fizzy-drinks business, given the turbulence in the financial markets.
http://www.economist.com/research/articlesBySubject/displaystory.cfm?subjectid=478044&story_id=10609020
February 2008
Kenyan flower growers are set to reap the benefits of Fairtrade certification this week, as more Valentine's shoppers in Europe opt for ethically grown roses.
Sales of Fairtrade flowers in the UK, the second biggest Fairtrade market in Europe, hit an estimated 72 million stems during 2007, according to the Fairtrade Foundation, up from 47 million the prior year. They had already almost trebled between 2005 and 2006.
http://allafrica.com/stories/200802121113.html
March 2008
Tate & Lyle sugar to be Fairtrade
Tate & Lyle sugar Tate & Lyle sugar sold in shops is to be Fairtrade accredited, making it the biggest UK firm to carry the label.
Granulated white cane sugar will be the brand's first Fairtrade product but it says it expects its entire retail range to follow by the end of 2009.
To earn a Fairtrade label, firms must pay local producers a fair price, and invest further to improve working conditions and local sustainability.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/nolpda/ukfs_news/hi/newsid_7260000/7260211.stm
Fairtrade 'farce' says tea tycoon
Merrill J. Fernando says Fairtrade is just another trendy brand.
The founder of global tea brand Dilmah says the Fairtrade labelling scheme is a well-intentioned "farce" that does little but put money into the pockets of middle-sellers.
Sri Lankan businessman Merrill J. Fernando - well-known for his television advertisements inviting us to try Dilmah tea - spoke to the Herald on a visit to New Zealand last week with his son Dilhan.
"It's no more than another marketing strategy," he said of the Fairtrade label, which is designed to give a warrant of ethics to produce from developing countries.
http://www.nzherald.co.nz/business/news/article.cfm?c_id=3&objectid=10498527
APril 2008
Fair trade in the coffee business
UNDER gigantic weeping fig trees, behind a blue roller door in a Brisbane footy shed, Marty Richards is firing up his 1957 Probat coffee roaster.
"I had my heart set on it," says Richards, who gazes at this silver hunk of cast-iron in such a way you'd swear it was love.
http://www.news.com.au/couriermail/story/0,23739,23459916-5013511,00.html
May 2008
Does Fairtrade boost church outreach?
Fairtrade Fortnight begins in Australia this week, your.sydneyanglicans.net asks whether church-Fairtrade partnerships is a viable option in Sydney. Over 90 per cent of the individuals who sell the UK’s leading fairtrade organisation’s products are committed Christians who operate out of local churches. Could this English model work in Sydney?
http://www.sydneyanglicans.net/sydneystories/does_fairtrade_boost_church_outreach/
June 2008
Fairtrade: An Ethics Girl for our times
Britain now leads the world in buying Fairtrade goods. Cassandra Jardine meets the driving force behind the movement
I'm confused, I tell Harriet Lamb, executive director of the Fairtrade Foundation. I buy chocolate and bananas that bear the Fairtrade sticker because it is a Good Thing, but I cannot understand why fairly priced third world produce is represented by what I see as a hawk's beak.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/portal/main.jhtml?xml=/portal/2008/02/06/ftfairtrade106.xml
Kenya: New Fairtrade Cola Takes On the World's Top Brands
A new Fairtrade cola, made with sugar sourced in Africa, is taking on the world's biggest brand tapping on the rise in "ethical" shopping.
Ubuntu cola, named after the word Bantu meaning humanity or kindness, sells at a premium of 15 per cent above Coca-Cola, but has already reached Sweden's main grocery and convenience stores less than a year after its launch.
It is also available in hundreds of smaller cafes and shops in the UK, Ireland and Norway.
http://allafrica.com/stories/200806171153.html
FLO-certified fairtrade shop opens in Taipei
GO WITH THE FLO: Consumers can now buy coffee products from developing countries and cut out the middle-man at Taiwan's first fairtrade coffee shop
The nation's first fair trade shop licensed by the Fairtrade Labeling Organization (FLO) International, headquartered in Germany, opened in Taipei recently, enabling consumers to buy products made in developing countries while helping them benefit through trade.
Oko Green, established and run by Hsu Wen-yen, is a cozy little coffee shop nestled in a quiet lane off of Xuzhou Road, and offers coffee beans — both via the Internet or at his shop — along with freshly made coffee.
http://www.taipeitimes.com/News/taiwan/archives/2008/06/30/2003416144/print



